Najdmie

patreon

Najdmie posts

Posts: 210 Files: 589

Toile: Baggy Shirt

Not as baggy as I hope for. Should add another 8 cm to 12 cm full chest ease, and make the shirt bit longer.Download(PDF for projector, not print).Adjust the seam allowances according to the seam type you want.

Baggy Shirt (Style3D Atelier)

Download link for Style3D project files.*Click here to read my review about Style3DReference garment: (the final result is not as baggy, so I may redo this later).Original instruction from Muller&Sohn Fundamental Menswear"Dress Shirt" (p60) with some adjustment on my part.Fabric: Woven. I use plain cotton but change the physical property to cotton-linen. I also edit the textures to add the...

Style3D Atelier vs Marvelous Designer

My one week experience of using Style3D Atelier. (Don't confuse with Style3D Studio)PROS:1. Affordability.Free version available for non-commercial use. I believe you cannot export high quality 3D model with the free version.Currently discounted at 18$ per month so a lot cheaper than MD $39. Their Unreal Engine simulator plugin is also discounted at $18 but I have no need for it. But beware! a...

Link: Baggy Shirt v1.0

Style3D

I just found out about this Clo3D competitorbecause I received a promotional email offering 6 months free individual license.From my cursory research, this is a legit alternative especially to Marvelous Designer. Not so for Clo because it lacks support for real life garment production.I plan to take a week later to explore the program. If it good enough, I'll make some drafting video using it....

Toile: Men Nylon Jacket

Download link.I use the Clo avatar measurement for this one because it is almost identical to my body form.

Men Nylon Jacket

Reference garment: Adererror Black & Blue Milos JacketBasic block: Aldrich FlatKimono Block. The orginal instruction has built-in seam allowance at certain part. I adjusted the values so that I don’t have to remove the built-in allowance afterward.Collar: Loosely based on Aldrich“standing straight collar”Fabric: Woven. Nylon.Not recorded: The stylelines/panels are just "cut and sew" ...

Toile: Women Leather Zip-up Jacket

Download link.

I'm taking a short break.

Just a head up the next upload will be delayed by one to two weeks because I decided to touch grass for a while. I hope you guys don't mind because this I've been consistently making 4-5 garments without fail each month since I started this Patreon.Don't worry, I'll come back more energized then ever and I'll try to squeeze in more garments next month. I already have a few mile...

Clo tip: Seam type

I just found out that there is another alternative seam that you can use in Clo. The default seam is plain seam shown below:The other seam that you can use is the directional seam, or 'felled seam' in real life. When using this seam, one fabric will be shown higher than the other. You will not notice it unless you are actively looking for it. This will not change the actual geometry of the...

Leather Zip-up Jacket

Reference garment: Brunello Cucinelli Glove Leather Zip-Up Hooded JacketThis is just regular raglan sleeve hoodie with leather fabric and linings. Maybe they cut a lot of panels because smaller pieces of leather are easier to source.Bodice and sleeve: Donnanno"Jacket with raglan sleeve" (p40).Hood: Aldrich"Simple Hood" (p193).Fabric: Leather. I try to add lining effect on the hood ...

IRL update: Projector

I finally bolted my projector to the wall so no more wobbly projector.If you don't like printing patterns, I highly recommend set-up like this. This projector is quite cheap at around 90$ and the stand/bracket is about 8$. It also has built-in miracast so I can cast my document directly from PC via wifi.The hardest part is to drill the wall. But it is not that hard though. This is my first tim...

Toile: Men Jeans.

First time ever sewing a jeans. Learn a lot. You can download the file here. The pdf is for projector, not printing. I use this new cheap fabric I bought instead of muslin. It is two times cheaper than muslin, which is good so that I don't feel restrain to waste fabric. I cost about 40$ for 63" x 40 yard. The main downside is the fabric kind of melt a bit when ironed. The vendor actually ...

Men Jeans

Original instruction from ESMOD men“Jean trouser base” (p150). Waistband (p188).Not recorded: Buttons, coin pocket, topstiches, puckering and other small adjustment.Fabric: Woven. I use stretch denim.This time, I make the waistband curved/shaped instead of straight. This is supposed to make the waistband fit better in real life.Sketchfabpreview.Download linkfor 3D files (expire after a month)...

Toile: Panties

The fabric is not stretchy enough, especially for vertical direction. I'll use four-way stretch fabric next time.I use fold-over elastic to finish the edge. The elastic length is shortened to 90%.I also added a crotch piece.Download link.The pdf is for projector, not printing.

Panties

No reference to specific brand.Instruction from EDA 8"Panties" (p23).The original instruction is to use measurement 2 to 3 size lower. From the chart, I figure that each size differs by 4 cm for the horizontal measurement, and 0.5 cm for the vertical measurement. This is why you will see me subtract 8 cm or 1 cm in the video. This is just a general rule, the best adjustment depends on the ...

Basic Toile: Men Casual Jacket

This is almost a complete garment, only missing the pockets and linings.Download the ready-to-sew patterns here, though the pdf is for projector not for print. Use zipper shorter than 70 cm and 4 cm x 28 cm elastic for cuffs. Seam allowance is 1 cm except 1.6 cm (5/8") at center-front for invisible zipper, and 5 cm for hem. There are notches on the sleeve-cap and armhole to guide sewing, but t...

Men Casual Jacket

Reference garment: This random jacket that I saw in a show. I'm particularly interested in the big collar.Bodice and sleeve: Myoungok"Classic-fit Jacket Foundation" (p290).Collar: Loosely based on ESMOD"Collar with banana inset" (p336). However, it is actually a shaped convertible collar with stand but with larger than normal collar.Not recorded: Pocket and other small details....

Basic toile: Ruched Halter Dress

Probably need more fullness to the shoulder and flare out the hem more to match the reference garment.This toile is actually very easy to sew because there is no sleeve.You can download the files here.

Ruched Halter Dress

Reference garment: DIANE VON FURSTENBERG Makayla Ruched Deep V-Neck Halter Maxi DressInstruction based on Zachary"Empire Waistline with V-Neckline" and Armstrong"Halters" (p205).Fabric: Woven. I use silk.All steps recorded except changing fabric and topstitching.Download linkfor 3D files (expire after a month).Download link for basic block. The folder name is "Feifei - Zachary ...

Basic toile: Men Cotton Shorts

As a beginner, I have a l lot of trouble sewing the waistband casing. In the end, I have to increase the waistband seam allowance so that I have more space to work with.In this pattern, the waistband pattern is separate from pants pattern. It should be easier if I make them one-piece.I use the 3 cm depth elastic band for the waistband.Although the sewing is crappy, it fit well. If not because the ...

IRL updates: New machines!

My new machines to replace the broken sewing machine just arrived. The sewing machine is Juki HZL-180SZ (about 130$). The overlocker is Brother 2104D (about 340$).If you are wondering why I do not spend on computer hardware's instead given that I mainly do 3D, it is because I already have. My current system is Ryzen 9 and RTX 4070. I don't think that any more upgrade will be beneficial. I ...

Men Cotton Shorts

No reference to specific brand but I did look at some Uniqlo shorts.Instruction from Aldrichmen pyjama trousers. I actually forget that Aldrich men block has 1 cm built-in seam allowance and only remember when someone mentioned in YouTube comment. But, It does not matter much for this garment because I want it to be a bit oversized. However, if you want to stay true to the original instruction, bu...

Basic Toile: Gathered Sleeve Bomber Jacket

I just sew everything willy nilly. A lot of mistakes and many things I like to do differently. However, I don't want to spend more than a day making the toile.IRL update:I feel very sad to today because my sewing machine just broke. Some functionality like reverse sewing is already broken long before, so I disassemble it to do some deep cleaning because I read online that it may fix it. But af...

Gathered Sleeve Bomber Jacket

Reference garment: Jean Paul Gaultier Bomber JacketBodice and sleeve draft instruction loosely based on Kershawanorak chapter. Most are just trial and error.Fabric: Woven. I use polyester taffetaNot recorded: Pockets and flaps. Topstitches and puckering. Other smaller pieces.Downlod linkfor 3D file (expire after a month).Downlod linkfor basic block. Folder name is "Thomas - Kershaw - Gathered ...

Women Oversized Jacket

Reference garment: YSL Oversized Jacket in Pinstripe Wool FeltInstruction based form Burgo"Classic Double Breasted Jacket" (p149), but without the front waist shaping/dart.Fabric: Woven. Wool.Not recorded: Buttons, pockets, back vents, surgeon cuff. I also edit the fabric texture to add the stripe.Download linkfor 3D files (expire after a month).Download linkfor basic blocks. The folder na...

Extended recording of Shell Jacket

This is a recording for the detailing process of a shell jacket that I made long time ago.I record most of the process except importing trim, topstitches, puckering and changing fabric.First part of video: https://youtu.be/LTL9VQ6Y040?si=jFCnyBL2HJ9Ah9PwFiles: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1LpeaZQoq2w3CY1__OpAJiGeWXlc0bD00?usp=sharing

Basic toile: Low Waist One-piece

I have gotten a bit faster at sewing, but not any better.I should bast the sleeve cap first, so that the sleeve-case-ease is distributed smoothly.With this I confirmed that this pattern is fitting in real world.But this is not exactly the same pattern in Clo because Clo avatar has 80 cm bust white this manikin has 88 cm bust. However, I use the same pattern file but change the measurement file to ...

Low Waist One-piece

Design and instruction entirely from Injoobook.Instruction fromInjoo"Low waist one-piece" (p455). Bodice sloper (p24). Sleeve sloper (p35) Blouse foundation (p381).Fabric: Woven. I use poplin.Not recorded: Buttons. Topstitch. I also swap the default poplin texture to add the plaid.In the video, I just "clone over" to make the collar and rolled-up cuff sleeve. Alternatively, and in ...