Najdmie
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Hooded Jacket
🕑 Added 2025-05-06 10:09:26 +0000 UTCReference garment: Carhartt Flannel-Lined Active Jac J140
Bodice instruction based on Aldrich flat overgarment block. I already did one before, but this time I remove the built-in seam allowance during the drafting process. I also incorporate men shaping (adding more volume to the back) within the draft itself instead of manipulating the traced pattern.
Sleeve instruction based on Aldrich “shaped sleeve with back seam”
Hood instruction based on the Aldrich “Raglan top with hood”. The original hood instruction is two-piece but I modified it myself to make it three-piece by adding the center band to match the reference garment.
In the end, the jacket looks exactly like a regular knit hoodie. I recommend adding some inside padding to puff up the jacket like the reference garment.
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Patrons can view the detailing process here.
Download link (free for Patron for a limited time).
Basic block available in shared folder.
Clo: Thomas - Aldrich - Flat Overgarment Block 250429 - Menswear Shaping - Hood
Style3D: Baron - Aldrich - Flat Overgarment Block 250429 - Menswear Shaping - Hood
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###### Footnotes ######
#1, The original ease given by the book is 5 cm. Adjust as you like. You can also adjust later during fitting before drafting the sleeve. If you already made the sleeve, just adjust the sleeve width until the cap matches the armhole.
#2, It is good practice to apply zipper later because fabric manipulation like cutting tend to mess up the zipper sometimes. For now, I use this strip as the zipper.
#3, Actually, instead of reducing the shrinkage weft. It is actually better to reduce the waistband width instead, usually in the range of 10% to 25% reduction. This way the ribbed fabric texture is not squished. This is also what they do in real life to have a fitted waistband. I forgot about this during recording, so I corrected in afterward in the final garment. The same goes to the ribbed cuff.
