Najdmie posts
Posts: 210
Files: 589
Detailing: Military Jacket
Later off camera, I simplified the waistband and hem casing.
Military Jacket
Reference garment: Silent Hill 2 remake jacket which is probably based on M65 US military jacket. I take design elements from both. The Silent Hill jacket looks more fitting while the M65 jacket is roomier.Bodice: Kawashimabasic jacket sloper (p176) with some modification by me. Take note that front shoulder line is shorter by 1 cm.Sleeve: Kawashimatwo-piece sleeve (p144). This is a more tailored ...
Military Jacket
High poly thick mesh only. Not retopologized. Seamline, topstitch and puckering (if any) as textures . UV arranged and exported as unified UV . Garment is in attention/natural pose as in preview. Marvelous Designer/Clo is needed to edit pose. Attachment include: 1. Native .zprj files from Clo 2. obj file of garment 3. obj file of garment with avatar/figure 4. fbx file of garment 5. glb file of g...
Style3D Military Jacket
High poly thick mesh only. Not retopologized. Seamline, topstitch and puckering (if any) as textures . UV arranged and exported as unified UV . Garment is in attention/natural pose as in preview. Style3D Atelier/Studio is needed to edit pose. Attachment include: 1. Native .sproj project files from Style3D 2. obj file of garment 3. obj file of garment with avatar/figure 4. fbx file of garment 5. ...
Toile: Casual Racing Jacket
I sewed most of the details except the pocket. Sewing the elastic was so difficult I broke a few needles. Next time I should make the elastic waistband and cuff separate pieces maybe It would be easier.All files available here.
You can now download the files for free from Patreon shop.
I think this is a better system rather than sharing google drive link. It save my drive space and it save me the effort of uploading the files.The only downside I can think of is that all the files are packed in one zip file which is quite large to download, around 500 MB. But I believe we all have good internet nowadays.I still have to limit the free download for about the latest 5 garments. Else...
Detailing footage: Casual Racing Jacket
This recording shows how I add some more details like changing fabric, pockets, back flap, adding graphic, topstitches etc.Another important step is the addition of shoulder pads. Without them the overall look is not good.
Casual Racing Jacket
Reference garment: RVD Sportism Racing JacketInstructionbased on Onishenkoet al "Basic Jacket Sloper" (p160). A different approach this time whereby they give a fixed value for S, M and L size so need to take body measurement. The M size is generally for male avatar with chest circumference 94 cm to 109 cm.This block as it is, is actually a bit too fitting for the reference garment, so I m...
Drafting Flat Overgarment Block in Seamly2D
A demonstration of how I use Seamly2Dto make my block. If you have any questions, comment the video or post in their forum.Instruction is from Aldrich"flat overgarment block". A bit of modification from me.This block is suitable for casual jacket and coat. You can also use it to make baggy shirt.The block is also ready to print. It has built-in 1 cm seam allowance so no need to add the sea...
Toile: Knee Pleat Sweatpants
This is difficult for me to sew because it is knit fabric. Moreover, the fabric is very flimsy. The drape looks awful - you can't even see the pleat. I should get thicker knit fabric next time. This fabric is fine as a simple toile but not when I sew many details like in this one.I originally used 4 cm depth elastic waistband, but the patterns do not have enough room for it. So, I have to trim...
Style3D Knee Pleat Sweatpants
Reference garment: FILLUMINATETrack Line String Sweatpants - BlackInstruction loosely based on Knowles"classic sweatpants with elastic and drawstring waist" (p133). I simplify a lot of things because no need to be too precise for roomy pants like this.Basic block:Patrons can view the unedited raw footage of the detailing process here(It is 3 hours long!)I also did a Clo version afterward (...
Detaling: Knee Pleat Sweatpants, Raw Footage
This footage is 3 hours long. I don't expect anyone to watch this, so I also uploaded the timelapse.I spend a lot of time figuring out how to add the stripes. When I just about to render I noticed that the stripe is not actually folded in the pleat, instead it sewn over the pleat, so I spend about 30 min more fixing that.Other steps are just routines like changing fabric, trims, adding side po...
Toile: Edwardian Dress
As a novice sewer, this turns out better than I expected. This time I learn my lesson and add more ease to the skirt waist (4 cm compared to 1.2 cm that I use in Clo model) because I already anticipated that it will be tight there.I usually use Seamly2D to make my sewing pattern, but it is almost impossible for contoured dress like this one. Making sewing pattern in Clo is easy if you want to prin...
Edwardian dress detailing, unedited recording.
Starting from this garment I will include the unedited raw footage so you can see me struggling. I did consider to stream it but I can't commit on specific time and my streaming setup is not ready yet.Themost important detailing is actually the pleats, which I already done in the edited video.Here is the video summary:1. The buttons are just circular fabric pieces. I always prefer to use fabri...
Edwardian Dress
Pattern mostly reference “Making Edwardian Costume for Women” by Suzanne Rowland, Chapter 7 “Two part walking dress” (picture below).Basic bodice and skirt instruction by Injoo et al.Sleeve instruction based on Donnanno. A bit of an archaic way of drafting the sleeve but I use it because its shape is the closest to the original pattern. The method that I used in the video tend to make wide...
Toile: Baggy Jeans
I cannot fully fasten the zipper unless I pull the waistband high up the waist. But this jean is supposed to be low-waist. I identify the cause is that there is not enough waist ease. I thought that the 3 cm full ease that in use should be just enough. I failed to realize that low-waist circumference is significantly longer that the usual waist circumference, so I should put a lot more ease. Alter...
Baggy Jeans
*I have completed the toile for my manikin (exclusive for subscriber), and the result is that I cannot fully fasten the zipper unless I pull up the waistband high up, even though this jean is supposed to be low-waist. I failed to realized that low-waist measurement is significantly longer than the usual waist measurement. So, if you are drafting for real life make sure to add more ease to the wais...
Toile: Hakama
Sorry this toile fabric is very light, it does not have the weight to properly drape the long pants-skirt.Maybe the waist straps are not long enough, depending on the way you tie them.One thing for sure is that I need to reinforce the point where the side-fold meet the side-seam. I removed the seam allowance there thinking that it is unnecessary but next time I should retain it there so that I can...
Style3D Hakama
Shirt (Kendogi): Dobson. Chapter 5 Hippari and jimbeiHakama: I cannot find any published English textbook about how to draft the hakama. My instruction is the result from reading the first few pages of internet search result, including pattern images and YouTube videos. Many value givens are just my own preferences and from test fit result.I faked the waist straps because it is very difficult to t...
Toile: Chef Uniform
Unlike Clo avatar, the difference between bust and hip size for this manikin is not too large. So I just made the sideseam straight.You can download the files here.
Chef Uniform
Bodice and sleeve: Based on EDA 1“base pattern” (p36) and “Industrialisation” (p56).Collar: EDA 2“neck strap / ribbon neck” (p86).Fabric: Woven. I use cotton poplin.Not recorded: Buttons, topstitch and puckering. Shoulder pocket. Some modification to the cuff.Fab preview.Download 3D files(expire after a month).Download basic block. The folder name is "Feifei - EDA - Base Blouse 241...
About importing obj file in Blender
Quick info about importing obj file created from Clo/MD into Blender. I don't know if this is a bug or working as intended.You may notice that the normal of the fabric, seamline, topstitch and puckering does not show up in blender.A quick way to fix this is to use the legacy obj importer but it is removed in newer version of Blender (> 3.6).My solution is to fix the texture nodes as shown. (Fo...
Toile: Shearling jacket
Maybe need a bit more ease because the real fabric is more bulky. From the videos and pics I see, the jacket also does not have lining, but I add it anyway.Leather garments are probably sewn with simple seam reinforced with glue and topstitches. But I use felled seam in this toile for practice. Sewing the felled seam at the armhole is so tedious, I should use French seam instead. Another thing to ...
Shearling Jacket
*As far as I know, a shearling jacket is more about the fabric (shearling leather) rather than the design. This one is in the style of bomber with buttons.Reference garment: BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Shearling Bomber JacketBodice: Loosely based on Burgoleather jacket (p270).Sleeve: Burgomen shirt sleeve (p254). Followed by a simple 2-piece modification.Collar: Kershaw"shaped convertible collar with h...
Toile: Parka
My biggest sewing project yet. Not a complete garment but I include the basic lining, zipper and side vent. The most difficult part is the side vent because this is my first time doing it.It takes me three days to sew but the preparation before that took weeks. You can download the pattern here. (The PDF for projector tracing on A1 cutting mat, not print).My resources:1. The previous post list my ...
BTS update
Just to let you guys know that even though I have not posted for a long time, I'm not slacking off.I've been busy researching how to sew the parka. This is my biggest sewing project yet. It was so difficult because the linings make things complicated. There's also not much resources online. But I'm determined to finish this because I like outerwear so much, even though I live in a ...
Style3D Parka
Reference garment: Canada Goose 3 in 1 "Toronto" JacketBodice: ESMOD men. Note that I use way less ease amount than what is suggested in the book.Body block with dart (p36)Blouson base (p286)Parka base (p292)Sleeve: ESMOD men.American sleeve (p312)American raglan sleeve (p316).Neck opening: ESMOD men.Stovepipe collar (p328).Covering hood (p346).Fabric: Woven. Mostly polyester. Knit rib for...
Toile: Women Tailored Shorts
Sorry it took so long to finish this. I spend a lot of time learning how to draft and sew the pockets.This is a step-up from basic toiles. I sew a complete zipper fly, pocket with bags, welt etc.My sources:ESMOD Fashion Detail Vol 1 "Assembly procedures - Women Trousers" (p153)ESMOD Fashion Detail Vol 2"Pocket in a seam" (p85)ESMOD Fashion Detail Vol 3"Trouser fly zipper with s...
Adjustment to my schedule
Because I also sew now, it is not realistic anymore to produce 1 garment every week. I try to do so but most likely I will be making only three or at least two garments every month.I also would like to set aside some time to learn some other stuff. Mainly texturing and other fashion accessories like shoes, bags, cap etc.
Women Tailored Shorts
Reference garment: (no reference to specific brand)Original instruction by Injoo et alPants sloper (p42) and "Short Pants" (p187).Fabric: Woven. Cotton twill.Not recorded: Almost all the steps recorded, you just need to change the fabric and color The only modification I made afterward is to "layer clone under" the welt pocket and open it. I also don't think this design need an...
